From nature trips to gastronomic paradises, Italy’s off-season coastline is full of unexpected delights.
The Italian coast is synonymous with summer: the vision of an Aperol Spritz enjoyed under blue parasols in front of a clear sea.
As an Italian growing up in England, every summer was an opportunity to spend the August holidays (called “Ferragosto”) in my grandparents’ seaside village, a highly anticipated ritual after the final exam. I spent long, lazy days in and out of the water in what seemed like unparalleled happiness.
But since I returned to my homeland in 2021 to do my PhD, I had the opportunity to explore the coast of the peninsula during other months of the year.
Some of the advantages of visiting the coast in the off-season (November-April) are quite obvious: lack of crowds, cool – but still pleasant – temperatures and even lower prices.
As the country battles over-tourism and its increasingly privatized beaches turn into a battleground between the billion-dollar recreational vehicle lobby and environmentalists, the use of Italy’s coastline during the colder months may be slower and more environmentally friendly. .
To help you choose your destination, here are five villages scattered along the coast”Bel Paese”that allow for a dream getaway in the off-season.
1. Varigotti: Amazing views, pasta and hiking trails
On the coastal road that leads to Varigotti, we see a rock in the shape of a lion, behind which is a promontory that juts out between two bays. It is a familiar welcome to what has long been called “pearlfrom ponente”or the “pearl” of the Italian Riviera.
The small village of Varigotti, located about halfway between Portofino and the French border, is a pocket beauty surrounded by steep cliffs. Its old town full of creepers and Moorish style (a legacy of Saracen raids in the Middle Ages) looks like the cover of a picture book from “Thousand and one night”.
Varigotti’s quirky charm even caught the attention of Disney-Pixar, who drew inspiration from the village for their animated film.luca”released in 2021.
As a relatively isolated place, it remains uncrowded even in summer, and its inhabitants have rejected excessive commercialization. It has become a haven for hermetic Italian celebrities who prefer the relaxed attitude of Varigotti to the more raucous luxury of Portofino or Porto Cervo.
The off-season offers the added advantage of being able to explore the village and its surroundings without the stifling weather and mosquitoes of summer.
Tourists have countless routes available. For the less adventurous, there’s the olive-lined walk to the 12th-century Church of San Lorenzo, an easy hike that offers breathtaking views of the Saracen Bay (“Baia dei Saraceni”).
For the more intrepid, there is the way of the pilgrim (“Pellegrino’s trail“), a 6.3 km hike to the top of a high ridge from where you can see much of the Riviera (and even Corsica on a clear day), and visit a smugglers’ cave: there “Grotta dei Falsari”.
And as a reward for the calories burned, Varigotti’s culinary offers will not disappoint.
The Italian Riviera invented some of the most popular Italian dishes. Local specialties at Varigotti include fresh pasta”trophy” with pesto sauce and soft focaccia. For the ultimate experience, dip a slice of focaccia into your cappuccino – you won’t look like a clumsy tourist, locals swear by it.
If natural beauty and gastronomic delights are not enough, you can also go to two picturesque villages just a short distance away: Finalborgo and Noli, the latter former maritime republic.
Varigotti is easily accessible by train or car from Genoa. The capital of the Italian Riviera is a maze of pastel-colored streets, interspersed with baroque monuments, and is worth a visit in its own right.
If you’re lucky, you can time your visit to coincide with one of these “Rolli Days” Genoa, during which the UNESCO-listed city palaces are open to the public free of charge. The next one is scheduled for May 17-19.
2. Sperlonga: Roman ruins and pirate watchtowers
Overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, the medieval town of Sperlonga dominates the long coastal strip halfway between Rome and Naples.
Clusters of white houses with azure shutters and flowerpots are reminiscent of Aegean islands, while its cactus-covered lawns – remnants of Spanish rule – give it a distinctly southern Italian feel.
Sperlonga has long been a sought-after coastal retreat, including for Roman emperors.
On a walk along the beach here, you will come across 2000-year-old ruins – at the foot of a small bay, you can see the remains of Emperor Tiberius’ villa. These remains, which contained giant statues, were discovered by local residents more than 60 years ago and are now on display in a year-round museum.
But while Sperlonga welcomed the Roman elite, not all visitors came with the best of intentions.
Over the centuries, the city suffered Saracen and Ottoman attacks, which led to the creation of its most characteristic monument: the 16th-century watchtower located on the edge of the cliff.
Today it suffers the only attacks from the masses of Italian and foreign vacationers who flock there during the warmer months.
As the town’s vast beach quickly fills up with rows of beach club loungers and the throngs of tourists that accompany them, the off-season is the perfect opportunity to stroll along the coast and soak up the sun (and history).
3. Praiano: lemons, seafood spaghetti and limoncello
Positano and Amalfi have long been the most popular resorts on the Amalfi Coast. But between the two, there is a forgotten little sister who is no less attractive.
Praiano, a hilltop village of a few thousand inhabitants, is a true microcosm of southern Italian life. While Positano and Amalfi have unfortunately fallen into the most kitschy traps of mass tourism, Praiano has retained much of its authenticity.
In the ceramic-tiled square, in front of its cathedral – the sparkling sea and the cliffs of Capri in the background – children play football under the gaze of grandfathers who read newspapers and sip coffee at the Caffè del Sole.
It’s the perfect place to pull out an old newspaper, smell the lemons wafting from the city’s many orchards (which bloom early in spring) and sample the many delicacies of the Amalfi Coast – from spaghetti to seafood and pizza à la “buffalo mozzarella” fresh with fried sardines, all washed down with a glass of limoncello at the end of the day.
For architecture lovers, even a modest town like Praiano won’t leave you wanting more. Its cathedral, which dominates the rest of the city, hides a baroque interior full of colorful tiles that are part of a local tradition dating back thousands of years. Other examples of ceramic artwork can be seen throughout the village, on street corners and at gates.
As with neighboring towns on the coast, getting to Praiano is a bit of a challenge as it requires several bus and train rides from Naples. But that is no longer the case: the Amalfi Coast will have its own airport, which will open its doors next July.
4. Tropea: colorful city with fiery cuisine
Located in the far south of Italy, the Calabrian village of Tropea isn’t often on travelers’ itineraries. It must be said that Calabria is often mistreated by the press: itis the poorest region in the country and is the prey of organized crime, especially a powerful syndicate “Ndrangheta”.
However, this should not deter tourists from visiting Tropea, which in addition to being labeled as the most beautiful village in Italyit is also a gastronomic paradise.
The city became internationally famous for its “red queen”: the red onion of Tropea (“cipolla rossaIts sweetness and lack of spiciness is such that it is often enjoyed raw, and local legend has it that it works wonders for health.
It’s not the only red food on the menu. Calabrian cuisine is the hottest in the country with chili peppers and spicy sausages (“Nduja“) and his pasta filletwhich can be tasted in Tropea.
Old Town Tropea Once you’ve recovered from the inevitable food coma, it’s a delight to explore Old Town Tropea, a place to lose yourself in the winding streets, its elegant porticoes and dilapidated buildings brightened by shops and restaurants.
Tropea is also home to the Sainte-Marie de l’Île shrine (“Santa Maria dell’Isola”), which is located on a rocky outcrop where the sand meets the sea.
5. Cefalù: churches covered in mosaics and icy citrus granite
Cefalù is far from the best kept secret in the world. For decades it has been one of the most popular seaside resorts in Sicily, known for its Mediterranean atmosphere, turquoise waters and colorful fishing boats.
Yet while tourists flock to Cefalù for the coveted Sicilian summer experience, the town is much more than a picturesque backdrop for a beach holiday or Instagram-worthy photo.
The city is a melting pot of history and customs, best explored in the off-season, in milder sunshine.
Cefalù shows how the many civilizations that have entered the island have left their mark on its architectural landscape. Arab-style arcades lead to Baroque facades, while the Gothic cathedral houses a Byzantine mosaic from c. “Christ Pantokrator”inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
This ancient fusion of traditions has also nourished the cuisine of Cefalù, whose specialties range from fried “_arancini”_balls to “cassata”. However, winter and spring are the seasons for most of the region’s natural products, and the spicy blood orange is best enjoyed from November to April.
While most coastal areas of Italy rarely get cold, Sicily’s proximity to North Africa means that Cefalù remains exceptionally mild in winter, with temperatures exceeding eighteen degrees even in mid-January.
Some may still opt for the typical summer beach vacation, but there are few pleasures greater than enjoying yourself granita with citrus fruit, views of the tranquil bay of Cefalù and lounging – rather than baking – in the midday sun.